IN ORDER TO OBTAIN A GOOD RESULT, WE ADVISE TO FOLLOW ALL GIVEN INSTRUCTIONS CAREFULLY.

SITE REQUIREMENTS

1

Laminate is a durable floor covering, not intended as structural material. Laminate requires a clean, dry, secure subfloor that meets building codes.

2

The following requirements are not intended to supersede federal, state or local building codes, but as with many other interior finish products, may require modifying existing structural components for successful installation. The owner assumes responsibility for compliance with all building codes. 

3

Laminate floor is suitable for use in indoor installations only (30-75%RH and 18-35°C) and should not be installed over any floor with a sump pump or in a room with a floor drain. 

4

Acceptable job site conditions, including relative humidity and subfloor moisture conditions, must be maintained throughout the lifetime of the flooring. 

5

Laminate flooring is installed as a floating floor and requires the use of Transition profiles in doorways 0.91m (3 ft) or less and in rooms 10m or larger in length or width. Floor movement must not be constrained by glue, nails, screws, hardware or other fixed obstructions. 

6

The product must be installed in accordance with these installation instructions. 

PREPARATION 

1 

Floorbit laminate floors can be bought in different formats, decors and qualities. Make sure you have received the correct flooring that you ordered before starting the installation. It is always a good idea to store the end labels together with your purchasing receipt. 

2 

Remove any damp-porous floor covering (carpet, needle felt, etc.) first. Damp-sealed floor covering (PVC, linoleum, VCT, etc.) does not have to be removed. Always use a dampproof underlay. We advise to use a Floorbit underlay. On a damp-sealed floor covering (PVC, linoleum, VCT, etc.) an underlay with a dampproof membrane (or a separated PE-foil) need to be installed to avoid migration. 

3 

WOODEN SUBFLOOR: Remove any existing floor covering first. No signs of mould and/or insect infestations should be present. Make sure the subfloor is level. Nail or screw down any loose parts. If the wooden subfloor is flat (no unevenness greater than 2mm over the length of 1 metre): you can install any Floorbit underlay. If the wooden subfloor is not flat and has unevenness > 4mm over a length of 2m, you have to install a self-levelling compound. Install the new floor at ninety degrees to the existing subfloor. The moisture content of the wood must not exceed 10%. 

4

The moisture content of the subfloor must be less than 2.5%CM / 75%RH (cement screed) or less than 0.5%CM / 50%RH (anhydrite screed - subfloor). Always measure, record and keep your moisture content results. A new cement screed floor must dry at least 1 week per 1cm (3/8”) thickness up to 4cm (1-1/2”). Thicknesses over 4cm (1-1/2”) require twice as much drying time. For example, a 6cm (2-1/2”) concrete subfloor must dry at least 8 weeks. Moisture measurements should always be taken and a protocol must be kept for the future. As the drying times are really depending on the climate conditions and the ventilation of the building, these timings are only indicative. 

5

Undercut door frame and wallbase. Slide the flooring at least 6.35mm (1/4") underneath the door frame and wallbase. Also leave a concealed 12mm expansion space under each. Never undercut metal door frames. Cutting tip: to undercut the door frame, lay a scrap piece of flooring next to the door frame and lay the saw flat on top of the flooring so that the saw easily cuts to the height of the plank. 

6

Make sure the subfloor is level. Any unevenness greater than 4 mm over the length of 2 metres must be smoothed out. The same applies to any unevenness of more than 1 mm over a length of 20 cm.

7 

After checking the subfloor for unevenness, carefully vacuum the entire surface. Make sure that the floor base is flat, clean, firm and dry. To avoid risk of squeaking, secure any loose particleboard, OSB, fiberboard, timber planks etc. with screws. 

8

For concrete subfloors, install a vapour barrier with overlapped seams of 2cm or more and seal with a waterproof cellophane tape.

9

Install the planks over single layer of underlayment appropriate for laminate floors. Make sure to follow the underlay installation instructions, taking special care to seal all foam edges with sealing tape and repair all rips and perforations in the underlay and the vapour barrier, if any, prior to flooring installation. 

10

To install your laminate floor you need the following standard tools: Hammer, saw (a jig-saw, hand circular saw, hand saw, or cross-cut saw), mouth mask (during sawing), pencil, tape measure, safety goggles and gloves. 

11 

Apart from that, you also need the following accessories: installation kit (a pulling iron, spacers and a tapping block), underlay system (use an underlay that provides a stable foundation for the floor, such as the Floorbit underlay) and suitable maintenance products. The use of accessories other than the Floorbit accessories might cause damage to the Floorbit floor. In such cases, the guarantee provided by Floorbit will be void. We therefore advise to use only Floorbit accessories as these have been specially designed and tested for the use with Floorbit planks. 

12

Check all panels before and during installation. Defective panels must never be used. An installed plank is considered as accepted and cannot be claimed. 

13 

Check whether the old skirting can be removed. You can leave the wall skirting boards in place and finish the floor with Floorbit profiles.

14

Check that the doors can still open and close after the floor and underlay have been installed. 

15 

Cooking islands for kitchens and other very heavy objects should be installed first and not placed on top of the laminate. The laminate floor must be able to move around the heavy objects to avoid open joints and separating planks.

16 

Floorbit laminate flooring is designed to be installed as a floating floor to allow natural expansion and contraction with changes in temperature and humidity. To achieve the benefits of a floating floor and to avoid possible gaps, squeaking etc. never fasten the floor with nails, screws, silicone etc. 

17 

A laminate floor is mainly composed of natural wood fibres and will naturally expand and contract upon changes in the relative humidity. The dimensional variation of the installed floor will almost be equal in length and width. At 20°C and a relative humidity, RH, between 40-60%, the movement is minimal. Floorbit laminate flooring is produced and delivered with a moisture content to cope with an RH between 30-75%. To secure enough clearance for the natural movements and to avoid possible open joints, squeaking etc. always keep a dilatation joint of 12mm average to walls, thresholds, staircases, pipes etc. during installation. Use the spacers of the installation kit to keep the right clearance. The clearance must be left open and may NOT be filled by any sealant, silicone or other adhesive. Never fasten the floor with nails, glue, screws or in any other way.

INSTALLATION 

The planks are not suitable for use in damp spaces like bathrooms, laundry rooms, pool areas, saunas and rooms with build-in drains like showers.  

You can choose where you want to begin. Think about what will be the easiest way to install the floor. We will demonstrate the installation for right-handed people, from left to right. You can work in the other direction if you want.

1 

Before starting, carefully measure the length and the width of the room to plan a precise layout to achieve a balanced appearance of the floor. This will ensure also you won’t end up with the last row being too narrow. If the last row would be less than 50mm, the installation will be easier if you cut down (halve) the planks of the first row in the length. 

2 

Make sure the planks are mixed sufficiently when you install them, so that you do not end up with too many identical, light or dark panels next to each other. To obtain the best visual effect, it is best to fit the floorboards in the direction of the longest wall and parallel to the incidence of light. 

3 

First install the underlay, per width and gradually as you progress. It is vital that you use underlays to smooth any unevenness in the base floor. The Floorbit underlays have an insulating, noise-reducing and levelling function. You can find more information about Floorbit underlays and how to install them at www.floorbit.com/products/floorbit-underlay. 

4 

Begin the first row with a whole plank. First saw off the tongue on both the long and the short sides. 

5 

Put the plank with sawn-off sides against the walls. Put spacers from the installation kit between the planks and the wall. This will ensure that your expansion joint is wide enough: 12mm. 

6 

Saw the panels. To obtain a clean cut, the pattern side should face down when you use a jigsaw, sabre saw or circular handsaw and up when you use a handsaw or a crosscut saw. Ensure that the end joints of the panels in two successive rows are never in line. Always ensure that the joints are staggered by at least 30cm (12 inches).

7 

Start with the first plank that will be installed in the corner. Remove the click profile on both the long and the short side of the plank by sawing. For other planks of the first row (not in the corner), remove the click profile on the long side that will be directly next to the wall. Any side of a plank that is directly next to a wall, must have its click profile removed, in order to ensure the required expansion gap. 

8 

In order to make the start of the installation easier, assemble the first 3 rows away from the wall, so you can sit on the planks during the assembly. Then slide the first 3 rows at the wanted position close to the wall with distance spacers in place. Take a thin rope and hold it alongside the installed planks to check and adjust the straightness of your installed first 3 rows. It is recommended to make additional checks of the straightness, in order to confirm the straightness during the installation. Remember to use the distance spacers for the expansion gap of 12mm along the perimeter. 

9 

You can install the planks by using the angle-angle method: First, rotate the short side of the plank to be installed, into the short side of the already installed plank, by means of the angle principle. Then raise the newly installed plank to an angle of 20-30°. This will also raise the previously installed planks in the same row, because their short sides are already connected. Place your hands close to the joint and pull the long side of the plank towards you. The panels will now click together. You can either insert the tongue into the groove, or the groove on to the tongue. The tongue in groove method is the most common and easiest way.

10 

In places where it is too difficult to install the planks with the tapping block (e.g. against the wall), you can tap them together using the pulling iron and a hammer. 

11 

Continue like this to the end of the room. 

12 

With lengths of more than 10m and widths of more than 10m, there should be an intermediate transition profile. The swelling and shrinking are linear, so the bigger the surface, the bigger the play at the edge has to be. 

13 

Room humidity can vary, so it is vital that the floor is able to expand and contract. For this reason, make sure you leave an expansion joint of 12mm on all sides of the floor, around pipes, thresholds and under doors. Expansion joints can be finished by means of a skirting that is attached to the subfloor. It is mandatory to provide a transition joint between different rooms (e.g. under the door). In typical T, – L or U– shaped rooms it may also be necessary to install a dilatation joint. Contact Floorbit customer service in case of doubt. 

14 

Remove all spacers.

FINISHING 

1 

Install the skirting against the wall. Never attach the skirting to the floor. This method allows the floor to expand and contract under the skirting. 

2 

When sawing the panels make sure that the expansion joint under the door is at least 12mm. If you cannot lift the plank, use the tapping block or pulling iron and hammer to tap the planks together when the planks are flat on the floor. 

3 

In rows where there is a pipe, make sure the pipe falls exactly in line with the short side of two panels. Take a drill bit with the same diameter as the pipe plus 24mm. Click the planks together on the short side and drill a hole centred on the joint between the two panels. Now you can install the planks on the floor. 

4 

In rows where there is a double pipe, proceed as follows: 1. Measure where the pipe will come through the plank. Don’t forget to allow for the expansion joint 2. Take a drill bit measuring the diameter of the pipe plus 24 mm for the expansion. Drill through the panel where the pipe will come through 3. Extend the hole to the edge of the plank 4. Lay the plank around the pipe 5. Take another plank and saw a piece that fits exactly in the remaining hole, and glue this piece with wood glue. 

5 

For a perfect finish around pipes, use pipe covers. 

6 

In places where it is difficult to install the planks with the tapping block, you can tap them together with the pulling iron and a hammer.

MAINTENANCE 

1 

You can walk on the floor during and immediately after installation. 

2 

a. For dry maintenance, we advise a broom or vacuum cleaner. Make sure the vacuum cleaner is equipped with soft wheels and a special parquet brush to avoid scratches on your floor. Do not use rotating beater bars, floor scrubbers, jet mops or similar products. b. Never use a steam cleaner. 

3 

For slightly damp and wet maintenance, occasionally wet mop with water only, using a well wrung out mop. Do not pour liquid directly on floor or use an excessively wet mop that will puddle or leave moisture standing on the floor. If needed, use a solution of 1 cup of vinegar per gallon of water OR 1/3 cup non-sudsing ammonia per gallon of water. Do not use detergents, abrasive cleaners, soaps, waxes or polishes. Be aware that the use of these cleaning products might damage your floor and void the warranty. For further information on how to clean and maintain your floor, please visit www.floorbit.com/pages/care-and-maintenance-guide. For specific cleaning instructions in commercial applications or projects, you can contact Floorbit customer service. 

4 

Remove any water and wipe up spills immediately. Do not allow topical moisture to remain on the floor longer than the time specified in the product warranty.

5 

Protect furniture and chair legs. Avoid bringing dirt, water and sand indoors by providing a suitable floor mat at the door. Use chairs and seats with soft wheels that are suitable for a laminate floor and/or use a suitable desk mat. 

6 

Never drag items of furniture over the floor, but lift them up. 

7 

The smooth surface of your laminate floor will not retain dirt or dust. Remove stubborn stains carefully with acetone or nail polish remover. Never use scouring products! Never use wax or varnish coating on the floor.

RECYCLING 

1 

Deliver installation waste or a disassembled floor to a recognized waste collection facility or recycling centre as "non-hazardous treated wood".